Circumsolar
Circumsolar
AND FRAGMENTS OF DYING LIGHT
Sruli Recht S/S 2013
Photography - Marinó Thorlacius
Background Artist – B. Börkur Eiríksson
Model - Emil Þór Guðmundsson
Lookbook Layout - Jarred Eberhart
PARIS RUNWAY AND PERFORMANCE
This season brought our first officially scheduled Paris runway presentation and performance.
Featuring the choreography and performance of artist Tony Orrico.
Original score from acclaimed composer Nico Muhly. www.nicomuhly.com
Presented as runway and performance within the epic spaces of Palais Brongniart, Paris.
Tony Orrico is a visual artist, performer, and choreographer. His Penwald Drawings appear in prominent private and museum collections and have been presented and exhibited internationally.
Penwald Drawings are a series of bilateral drawings in which Tony Orrico explores the use of his body as a tool of measurement to inscribe geometries through movement and course. The master of each drawing is a conceptual score of Orrico's efficacious techniques, imposed variables, and specified durations or objectives. He explores the limitation of (or the spontaneous navigation within) the sphere of his outstretched arms, considering themes of repetition, locomotion, and eventual exhaustion. He performs his ideas live as a shared process that yields a unique impression or print of the original concept.
Sruli Recht would like to thank Tranoi for their invitation to show at Palais Brongniart.
Story
This is the fourth complete menswear line from Sruli Recht.
“This collection is drawn by the dust of a meteor's tail in orbital decay, illuminated by our sun.” - Sruli Recht, June, 2012.
The collection in three words – Solar, Polarising, Circular.
The Circumsolar collection for Spring and 2013 consists of 24 total looks - from light coats, tailored jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings, complimented by hats, boots, shoes, bags, gloves, sunglasses and jewellery - 55 styles, approximately 105 items with material variations.
The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, where the width of the material allows. i.e. In the case of the shirts, the cuff and placket come from the same piece of fabric as the sleeve, which is also part of the body and collar.
Our shoes are hand-lasted in-house and completely hand-sewn.
This season employs a global selection of waxed cottons, leathers and silks, and timber, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin.
Our buttons this season, an Obol, are made from oxidized metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.
Everything in the collection is made in Iceland.
MATERIALS
Featured sourced materials: meteorite, translucent leather, black gold, ballistic aramid, high-tech paraffin cooling linings, skunk fur, aluminium-infused lamb skin and bamboo suiting.
Transparent Leather
Made from the purest lambs – for if you remove the soul of an animal before its passing, the skin becomes transparent.
Muonionalusta Meteorite
Considered the oldest meteorite to have impacted the earth, the Muonionalusta Meteorite has passed through four Ice-ages, having fallen into the Arctic Circle about 1 million years ago.
Solar Burned Black Gold
For if you take the gold from the teeth of the passed during the daylight hours, it will become black when reworked.
High-Tech Paraffin Cooling Knit
Used in military and medical applications, this material rapidly cools the skin on contact. This season we have used it for both linings and undergarments.
Ballistic Aramid
Known for its employment in military ballistic protection, aramid fibres are used in layers to stop mortar and knife attacks.
Skunk
Historically referred to as Alaskan Sable, the skunk’s fur is a shimmering black with a white V running from head to tail. This fur consists of two layers, a soft inner fur (25-40mm long), and longer guard hairs (35-80mm long) which are of a coarser texture than the under fur.
Lamb-coated Aluminium
Before departing, the lamb is placed partly submerged in a tank, where through scientific application the aluminium, like adamantium, is fused between the first few layers of the epidermis.
Bamboo Suiting
Traditionally Bamboo was used to make hats and shoes in Japan and China.
Moso bamboo has many advantages as a raw material for textiles over materials such as cotton. The plants can reach up to 35 metres tall and are the fastest growing woody plants on earth. The high growth rate of bamboo and the fact that it can grow in such diverse climates makes the bamboo plant a sustainable and versatile resource.
GARMENTS
Feature Garments: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Spring and Summer 2013, Circumsolar.
*Some items made to order only
Show Piece One - Carapace*
SR549 – Translucent Leather Vest - Made from the purest lambs – for if you remove the soul of an animal before its passing, the skin becomes transparent.
from the shell and from swell
comes I, as divided by two
Show Piece Two – Shoes to be Born and Die in*
SR550 - Translucent Five-Dimensional Lamb Leather Parchment Shoes
To be placed on at birth and again at death,
for in dimension 5, they are the parenthesis of this twisted mass, I.
Show Piece Three – Epoch*
SR540b - Large Acid-Etched Ring from the Muonionalusta Meteorite.
And such was the bang that delivered these marks
Swept from the walls of solitude’s hearth
By the hands of one blacksmith, acid, and the coincidence of gravity’s pull on a passing octahedrite, comes the ring EPOCH, sheared and formed from the Muonionalusta Meteorite.
Considered the oldest meteorite to have impacted the earth, the Muonionalusta Meteorite has passed through four Ice-ages, having fallen into the Arctic Circle about one million years ago.
The linear striations are naturally occurring as a result of the heavy shock impact with the planet.
Show Piece Four* - Supermassive
SR527a - Skunk Fur High Collar Bomber
I’m bigger, bolder
rougher and tougher,
break through the wall
when there is no other
Feature Piece One - In Solar Wind
SR534 - Digital-Print Silk and Cashmere Skarf.
It passed through my hand
at the speed of times mane,
To blow through the depths
and delivered thy name
2.5m long Skarf [70% WS 30% SE], with digital print of our Sun’s solar wind, by artist B. Börkur Éiriksson, produced by couture fabric house Ratti.
Feature Piece Two - From Kinetic Energy
SR523 - Hand Knitted Cowl Sweater [100% Organic CO].
Feature Piece Three - Supermassive
SR527c - Dark Green High Collar Bomber from Aluminium-infused Lambskin.
Feature Piece Four - May Your Duty Dance With Death
SR520c - Ballistic-Proof Brimless Hat [100% WV 100% Kevlar].
Feature Non-Product: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Spring and Summer 2013, Circumsolar.
*some items made to order only
Feature Product One - Shaft*
SR528a - Blood-Red Layered Penis Form, Icelandic Horse Leather
Feature Product Two - Sheath*
SR503a - Black Leather Ribbed Prophylactic, Ostrich Leather
Feature Product Three - White Albedo*
SR507 - Drift-White Rimless Cherry Wood Frames – with clear or tinted lenses.
Feature Product Four - The Great Transition*
SR531a - Single piece translucent leather passport holder, with sections for travel documents, 4 sim cards, pen and paper currency.
no privacy here,
my identity there
with the x-ray’s vision
and the big brothers’ stare
Feature Product Four - From Decaying Orbit
SR542b - Twisted bracelet of blackened gold, shaped to the path the earth takes around our sun, with one polished edge.
Golden-foil sails set in the sky on the days of the eclipse catching solar wind, filtered by the density of the moon, your metals, so precious, will shine black.