Concentrated
Concentrated
completely
burned
my city
overturned
spurned
Photography - Marinó Thorlacius
Model - Emil Þór Guðmundsson
Lookbook Layout - Jarred Eberhart
PARIS RUNWAY AND PERFORMANCE
This season brings our third officially-scheduled Paris runway presentation and performance.
Presented as runway and performance within the cavernous hall of Carousel Du Louvre, Paris.
Original score performed live by acclaimed producer and composer Valgeir Sigurðsson.
Show produced with interactive artists Nils Wiberg, Anders Mellbratt [Mellbratt & Wiberg], DZL and Vanessa Carpenter [illutron].
With Special Thanks to:
Greenhouse Studios, Tranoi, Promote Iceland, Sruli Recht Studio team and Aesop.
Sruli Recht would like to thank Tranoi for their invitation to show at Carousel Du Louvre.
STORY
This is the fifth complete menswear line from Sruli Recht.
“This collection is completely burned.” - Sruli Recht, January, 2013.
The collection in three words – facetted, charred, smoking.
The Concentrated collection for Autumn and Winter 2013/14 consists of 28 total looks - from heavy coats, fur jackets, tailored suits, cardigans, to trousers, shorts and underwear, pea-coats, shirts, sweaters and jerseys, complimented by boots, loafers, trainers, bags, raincoats, gloves, cufflinks and fossilized resin jewellery - 60 styles, approximately 150 with material variations.
All garments and product samples are produced in-house and in the EU, unless otherwise stated.
The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, utilising an origami hybrid of tailoring, draping and digital modification.
This season employs a global selection of waxed cottons, leathers, wool and felts, silks, and timber, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin. A permanent creasing system has been developed for the mechanised pleat structures of the garments.
Our buttons this season are in the form of a facetted shield, made from oxidised metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.
MATERIALS
Featured sourced materials: Japanese denim and heavy satin, goat skin, walnut wood, cashmere rib, metal mesh, Austrian felt, Scottish waxed cotton, viscose jersey, wool and modal jersey, silk and cupro shirting, shearling, pixelated rabbit fur, and Italian wool suiting.
Anthropodermic Leather
In a documented one-time surgery-performance, a plastic surgeon removed a 110mm x 10mm strip of skin from the abdomen of Sruli Recht. The subcutaneous tissue and epidermis was then scraped from the dermis, which is stripped of fat by hand and blade, before being salted, and tanned with an Alum solution. The resulting leather from the dermis was prepared for use in the ring, Forget Me Knot.
Wool Silk Skeins
Complete and unwound skeins made of 30% silk and 70% wool, made in Switzerland, hand applied in an incredibly intricate process on the stand.
Polygonal Wooden Material
To transform wood into a flexible wooden surface, by dark digital art, a cell-phone whispered soft binary code to a walnut tree seed for a year, then planted it in the ashes of a glacier.
Once grown, the wood is deconstructed into geometric pieces, and then attached to a textile base by hand, creating a material half wood, half textile - a flexible wooden surface, completely fragmentary.
The "Wooden Textiles" in this collection are produced with Elisa Strozyk, uniquely for our garments.
Fossilised Resin
Emulating nature's processes of fossilisation and weathering, our jewellery this season is made using resin and raw minerals. Combing black acrylic resin with pyrite specimens, and white resin with bornite specimens (peacock ore), each piece is individually hand sculpted by Jade Mellor.
Eiderdown
Hand collected Eiderdown from the abandoned nests on the beaches of Örlygshofn, in the Westfjörds of Iceland.
The down of birds is a layer of fine feathers found under the tougher exterior feathers. Very young birds are clad only in down. The loose structure of down feathers traps air, which helps to insulate the bird against heat loss. The word down comes from the Old Norse word dūnn.
The down is cleaned in our studio for use in our show-piece Interdiktor.
GARMENTS
Feature Garments: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Autumn and Winter 2013/14, Concentrated.
*Show piece items made to order only
Show Piece One – Lo/Rez*
SR636 - Cropped militia jacket, made from walnut wood material on a wool base.
The simplified disastery of polygonal geometry - breaking the body down into a pixelated memory.
To transform wood into a flexible wooden surface, by dark digital art, a cell-phone whispered soft binary code to a walnut tree seed for a year, then planted it in the ashes of a glacier.
Once grown, the wood is deconstructed into pieces, and then attached to a textile base, creating a material that is half wood, half textile, and completely fragmentary.
The "Wooden Textiles" in this collection are made with Elisa Strozyk, uniquely for our garments.
Show Piece Two – Interdiktor*
SR621c - Single piece, wax bomber with hand collected Eiderdown from beaches in Iceland
Hand collected Eiderdown from the abandoned nests on the beaches of Örlygshofn, in the Westfjörds of Iceland.
The down of birds is a layer of fine feathers found under the tougher exterior feathers. Very young birds are clad only in down. The loose structure of down feathers traps air, which helps to insulate the bird against heat loss. The word down comes from the Old Norse word dūnn.
The down is cleaned in our studio for use in our show-piece Interdiktor
Show Piece Three – Skein*
SR637 - Sweater from unwound skeins, hand attached with crocheted tape, draped on the stand.
Complete and unwound skeins made of 30% Silk and 70% wool, made in Switzerland, hand applied in an incredibly slow process on the stand.
Show Piece Four – The Critical Angle
SR605 - Polygon floating pleated trousers, with permanent creases from Japanese heavy cotton satin, formalises of our pixelated moments.
Show Piece Five – Notion Captured*
SR635 - Loose sweater from walnut wood material on a wool base.
Show Piece Seven – Trilliant Cut *
SR649 - Double sided wood skarf from walnut wood on linen base with fringes
Show Piece Eight – Sentinel*
SR654 - Layered veneer wood boots, laser cut and compressed, with hinged opening.
Show Piece Nine - Forget Me Knot
SR661 - Leather made from the abdomen skin of Sruli Recht, mounted to a 24 carat gold band.
There will be only one of this piece made.
The Forget Me Knot band is presented with a DNA certificate and a complete DVD documentary of the process, surgery and interviews with the involved team.
Forget Me Knot
SR661, Nov/Dec 2012, 1 of 1
Anthropodermic leather and 24 carat gold
Feature Piece One - Dispersion
SR622 - Herringbone printed opaque PVC trench-raincoat with taped seams.
Feature Piece Two - Latice
SR604b - Single piece, loose pleated trousers from matt black metal mesh.
Feature Piece Three – Rez-olve
SR626a - Pleated leather jacket from pixel sheared rabbit fur.
Feature Non-Product: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Autumn and Winter 2013/14, Concentrated.
*show piece items made to order only
Feature Product One - Pik
SR646 - Anti-bacterial personal silver toothpick
Feature Product Two - Record Trap
SR662 - Plasma-cut cantilever steel record stand, in tank trap form. Holds approximately 150 vinyl LP’s
Feature Product Three - Pinlink
SR643 - Silver cufflink pin, with twisted shaft for locking into material.
Feature Product Four - Golden Truth*
Faceted gold tooth, 24 carat gold.
Feature Product Five - Ruins Jewellery Series
SR657-660 - Faceted single and two-finger rings, and earplugs made from Fossilized Resin
Emulating nature's processes of fossilisation and weathering, our jewellery this season is made using resin and raw minerals. Combining black acrylic resin pyrite specimens, and white resin with bornite specimens (peacock ore), each piece is individually hand sculpted by Jade Mellor.
Feature Product Six - Facet
SR642 – Hand-made black faceted sunglass frames.
Feature Product Seven - Kraxe
SR644 - Formed horse skin backpack, with waterproof zip.
Feature Product Eight - StepKut
SR652 - Reverse lasted loafer from goat skin suede
Feature Product Nine - Hollow Cause
SR640 - Hand burn dyed skarves, 2.5m long, from 80% Cotton/ 20% Viscose.